"At Juju Cafe in Cobble Hill I noticed they market their versions as “sushi burritos,” with flavors like shrimp tempura, bacon-egg-and-cheese, fried tofu with kimchi, and a buttermilk chicken with onion rings — a framing that feeds into the playful, existential question of whether onigirazu is a sandwich, while underscoring that freshness and properly cooked rice are what separate one maker from another." - Emma Orlow