"Aladin’s Kebabish in West Hendon is being slept on by everyone outside of about one thousand Pakistani families who know that it is one of the essential places in London to explore the “holy trinity” of Karachi cooking: haleem, nihaari, and Karachi qorma. The haleem contains the ghost of the strands and fibres it once was, rich and glutinous, while the nihaari is among the city’s best, the fat forming little islets bobbing in an ocean of red oil, above a shank that can be dismantled completely with the back of a spoon. The qorma is unlike any korma Londoners know, inspired by the Mughals but rich without being creamy, with heavy black pepper spicing, all cut through with subtle acidity." - Jonathan Nunn
Eater
