"Edmonton is home to grand Turkish restaurants, palaces larger than most of Green Lanes or Dalston’s finest, but it’s at one of the smallest places on the strip where two of London’s great late-night snacks are located. At Ponders End’s Neco Tantuni, finely chopped flesh and fat are stuffed into cigarillos or sandwiched into cubano-like subs respectively. For those who want an even more profound tantuni experience there are four ecstatic words: brown butter iskender tantuni, in which two tantuni are baked then drenched in caramelised butter, tomato and yoghurt. Kunefe here is also excellent, caramelised but not overly sweet, and balanced enough to take without adornment of cream. A small tip: the whole family who run Neco can make any of the items superbly, but if the wife makes the tantuni, it’s just that little bit more transcendent." - Jonathan Nunn