"Demonstrating how bistros — especially those that partly concentrate on seafood — have also turned to ceviche, Leroy House in the West Village via chef David Werner offers a lively sea bass ceviche that makes an excellent appetizer, where the chunks of fish are interspersed with avocado and fresh serrano peppers, making it spicy in a restrained sort of way. But the signal achievement of this West Village restaurant lies in furnishing the ceviche with freshly fried potato chips rather than tostadas, perfect for dipping and adding an extra level of saltiness." - Robert Sietsema, Patty Diez