"Ototo in Echo Park may be a “younger brother” (literally, in its Japanese translation, and figuratively, to next-door izakaya Tsubaki) but its James Beard Award-winning sake program and irreverent, frequently changing menu of Japanese bar snacks has given it a main character energy all its own. Angelenos and out-of-towners — all subject to the restaurant’s egalitarian sign-yourself-in waiting list — descend upon Allison Avenue for dishes like fluke sashimi spiked with ponzu and patches of limey yuzu kararin, okonomiyaki topped with fluttering bonito flakes, and a filet-ototo-fish sandwich that can only be tamed with a two-hand grip. The sake curation is deeply intentional, with tasting notes on the menu supplemented by the knowledge of staff members who happily offer pairing suggestions for each plate." - Matthew Kang