"This quintessential sushi takeout spot moved a block up last year and got fancier in the process. Three sushi chefs are now spotlit at the counter, rapidly packaging fish for a line of delivery cyclists while the three elegant dining rooms nearby sit largely empty. The prices are better than expected for sushi of this quality, and chefs will occasionally slip customers who dine in a complimentary piece of tuna belly as part of the budget assortment." - Robert Sietsema