
7

"The King's Cross outpost delivers a mixed, mostly disappointing impression: standout items include excellent polenta with roast mushrooms and a rich, umami-filled mushroom bruschetta, but many plates fall short — globe artichoke is overcooked and buried under cheese and breadcrumbs, cime di rapa dishes and an ox-cheek ragu are overly salty, orecchiette is gritty, tonno tonnato bland, roasted fennel undercooked and roast Jerusalem artichokes a messy failure. The interior feels chaotic and the service appears geared toward a social-media crowd, leaving critics to call much of the cooking forgettable despite a few good moments." - George Reynolds