Ishin’s “My Style” Omakase Arrives in Midtown’s Flashiest New Building | Eater Atlanta

"Intimacy sets the tone on the rooftop of the glitzy Ten Twenty Spring building beside Celestia, where chef Fuyuhiko Ito beckons you to pick up a delicate chopped squid nigiri from his hand and watches for every nod and smile as it falls apart in your mouth. The $275 omakase stacks layers of salinity and sharp acid—blended soy sauces, good pinches of salt, and caviar for brine; ponzu skin and juice, ginger, and red vinegar for tartness—liberally used yet balanced with the fish and rice. Exuberance peaks with toro piled ridiculously high with shaved white and black truffles and caviar, decadence closes with wagyu nigiri finished with garlic chips, and the akami stands out for its simplicity and finesse; stick to wines by the glass while the beverage selection is being beefed up. Glass pendant lights shaped like oversized sun hats, low-fi house drifting in from Celestia’s live DJ, floor-to-ceiling windows framing a breathtaking Midtown view, and the sweet, smoky scent of torched red miso make the room feel glamorous—reminiscent of bougie Design District Miami and Buckhead’s Umi. When asked whether the progression is traditional edomae or kaiseki, Ito grins, “It’s my style.” Save room for dessert as pastry chef Lisa Ito plates a playful deconstructed apple pie with frozen sugared cranberries, then step onto the rooftop deck—Midtown looks mighty good at night." - Henna Bakshi