"A sprawling food court and community hub in fast-gentrifying Saint-Ouen-sur-Seine that draws bourgeois-bohemian 30- and 40-somethings, families with toddlers, and lively crowds; visitors gather at pine tables to drink Meteor on draft and eat artisanal pizzas crowned with burrata or crisped smash burgers on glossy buns, while drag artists such as Lula Strega and HitsuBlu stage interactive moments like metal-bingo theatrics that turn dining into performance." - Caitlin Gunther