"Reliably swish and seasonal, this bastion of Gallic cookery is massively popular with well-heeled locals. For just £35 a head anyone can join them for a weekday lunch to remember: start with duck-egg tart, follow it with boudin of corn-fed chicken, girolles and spätzle, and finish with the plum sorbet and freshly baked madeleines. The chips, at £4 and served with béarnaise for dunking, are in a league of their own." - Emma Hughes