"The garnishes at this stylish Modern Indian in Mayfair sum up its spirit: a jugalbandhi of fried green chillies and micro shoots — harmonious duet of Indian flavours with Western flourishes. Chaats are true to what a bhaiyaji (street food vendor) on Chowpatty beach might serve: crisp potato tikkis topped with beautifully spiced dried white pea stew, and Indian ‘sloppy joes’ of vegetable masala smothering fluffy clouds of dainty white bread rolls. Koliwada squid from Mumbai’s fishermen Koli community is shot through with chillies and garlic; and Mumbai’s egg-and-bread specialities like ghotala and baida roti are found on the Sunday brunch menu. Although (Kutir chef-patron) Rohit Ghai is no longer involved with the restaurant — part of the Leela Group that includes Mayfair’s Jamavar — his much-loved rarah keema pao has remained on the menu: a creation inspired by Mumbai’s keema pao and North Indian rara gosht in which lamb chunks give texture to lamb mince." - Sejal Sukhadwala
