"The New Yorker takes on the garish new golden wings at The Ainsworth, produced in collaboration with the food world’s most insufferable influencer, Jonathan Cheban. Or, as writer Helen Rosner gleefully puts it, 'The creative force behind this intestinal El Dorado is Jonathan Cheban, an erstwhile P.R. professional and self-propelled media personality who — despite an aggressive attempt to rebrand himself as a culinary influencer, complete with the nom de guerre Foodgōd — remains best known as a friend of Kim Kardashian.' Rosner explores the deep history of eating gold and concludes, 'The art is the act of selling the promise of golden shit, or maybe it’s the act of producing it.'" - Stefanie Tuder
