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"Whole fried shrimp, crisp from head to tail, scratched my shrimp‑chip itch: the tôm chiên were crunchy without grease and seasoned with a savory “northern spice mix.” This Vietnamese restaurant, which has gradually expanded along Forsyth Street, uses modestly sized shrimp and sends out a generous number for $15, a choice that gives each bite the ideal ratio of crackly, flavorful coating to sweet, bouncy flesh. I was so pleased we ordered two rounds instead of one." - Bettina Makalintal