"“Hyper-seasonal, cool climate cooking” perfectly encapsulates the food-sourcing ethic of chef James Cross but the brevity of the phrase only hints at the exceptional meals, served in this 19-seat restaurant. There’s a stripped down, vaguely Scandinavian feel to its interior, so no real distraction from savouring what Cross intends to be “one of the best meals” of diners’ lives. His protein heavy five- or eight-course tasting menus — a 12-course one is available too — might encompass muntjac deer from Scotland, lobster from Norway, and Herdwick lamb and veal short rib from the Lake District. Bergen steamed halibut with beurre monté sauce (based on one of five house-made misos) and the 120-day-aged Blue Grey beef, barbecued in the kitchen in front of your eyes and served with black truffle oil, are a couple of dishes to look out for. Cool climate cooking? The warmth is in the welcome and in the deep contentment of dining here." - Christian Dymond