Review: René Redzepi’s ‘Omnivore’ Is Beautiful — and Skippable | Eater
"Set to close at the end of 2024, this much-lauded Copenhagen restaurant is entering its final, reservation-only chapter, with only a few coveted seats left. The chef’s presence and voiceovers figure prominently in a new TV series that repeatedly returns to the restaurant’s kitchen and dining room—scenes like serving whole reaper chiles to a room of sweaty diners recall the intense, transcendent experiences longtime patrons describe. The show uses the venue as a framing device, showcasing how rare, global ingredients can be transformed into dishes most people will never taste and positioning the restaurant (and its chef) as the ultimate authority, even as it gives limited airtime to the farmers and producers behind those ingredients. That tension with the restaurant’s local-first ethos, alongside questions about sustainability and spectacle over substance, will delight devoted fans while leaving other viewers wanting more depth and urgency." - Amy McCarthy
