
16

"Since late 2019, this Upper East Side spot has been churning out excellent Japanese dishes, and after Shigefumi Kabashima closed their Harlem cocktail bar and restaurant ROKC, some of that menu merged here, creating a dining-and-drinking experience that feels highly reminiscent of being in Japan. My must-orders: the chicken and vegetable soup curry ($34), a Hokkaido/Sapporo-style bowl with a lightly textured yet rich curried broth, a preferred level of spiciness, and a choice of turmeric rice size, served with juicy bone-in chicken and thick vegetables; the wagyu tartare ($28), elevated by Miyazaki wagyu and topped with a huge pile of thin, crispy fries; and the cold duck ramen ($28) from a late-summer visit, with a delicate chilled broth, rare slices of duck, an oh-so-tart plum, a yolky half-egg, and springy noodles. The cocktails are way more fancy than the food; the menu makes ordering approachable with taste scales ranging from booziness to fruitiness to smokiness, and the Indigo Negroni ($18)—a clarified grapefruit cocktail—hits high-medium booziness, low-medium bitterness, and high elegance. Portions run large, so there’s plenty for leftovers, especially the soup curry." - Nadia Chaudhury