Look Inside the New Northwest Portland Smith Teamaker Cafe, Open May 29 | Eater Portland

"Opening May 29 in a shiny new NW 23rd cafe at 500 NW 23rd Avenue, the shop’s most ambitious project to date pairs a daily 9 a.m.–5 p.m. food program (designed by Karl Holl) with an adventurous tea program. The food menu weaves the brand’s teas into many preparations—ground into powders to spice pastries, infused into jams and sauces, or sprinkled on vegetables—and uses organic Oregon fruit in jams such as strawberry with Red Nectar and Lord Bergamot with boysenberries, blackberries, and Marionberries. Meadow tea appears in granola for an overnight oats bowl with oat milk yogurt and in butter for baguettes; White Petal infuses sheep’s-milk cheese for a rainbow carrot and barley bowl; a quinoa bowl gets sencha plus chai-and-sugar-coated walnuts; and turmeric noodles use the turmeric from Golden Light with buckwheat. The entirely vegetarian menu (with several vegan and gluten-free options) emphasizes plant-based comfort—Holl even roasts jasmine-infused beets and slices them thin to mimic deli meat—and he keeps steeping gentle (about fifteen minutes) to preserve nuance. The tea service is varied as well: 30 teas brewed hot, black teas pulled from an espresso machine for tea lattes, tea flights, seasonal non-alcoholic tea cocktails like a Camelia sour (Portland Breakfast with lemon and aquafaba), and traditional Gaiwan service that briefly steeps teas multiple times to highlight different expressions. Designed by Andee Hess of Osmose, the space nods to tea with amber-glass light fixtures, tea-green walls, and an oak menu wall burned with the quote "The perfect cup of tea is one shared with others." Takeout and delivery will be available via Tock, with outdoor seating offered." - Brooke Jackson-Glidden