Which Wine Pairs Best With Beijing Duck at E-Tang in Savannah? | Eater Carolinas
"A wine shop located just off Savannah’s Crawford Square that maintains a symbiotic relationship with the neighboring Sichuan restaurant: the restaurant owner was the shop’s first customer, and for a spell the sommelier and owner Jamie Crotts “subsisted solely on xiao long bao and Sichuan beef noodles.” Now Crotts dines at the neighbor three times a week but still knows the menu well enough to recommend pairings, and the shop welcomes diners bringing bottles into the restaurant for a $10 corkage fee. For Lunar New Year pairings Crotts and managing partner Hunter Jones offer detailed, dish-specific guidance. On pork xiao long bao, Crotts recommends pinot noir from the cool-climate regions of northern Italy: “The savory and earthy qualities of the pinot meet those of pork, while the tartness of a cool-climate wine offers a welcome flavor to a hot soup. Soft tannins provide a bit of texture for everything to hold onto without overpowering the delicacy of the flavor.” For alternating bites of chili oil wontons and garlic cucumbers Crotts notes: “Riesling is no longer a secret in the world of pairing with Chinese food — it has become the trusty weapon of choice.” “We have actually chosen a dry riesling here to show that the pairing is supported by more than just sugar. The fruity elements of the wine still play nice with spice, while the vibrant acids keep your mouth watering.” On the fish filet in pickled cabbage soup Crotts says, “The sour cabbage soup lends such a simple, nourishing sensation while managing to maintain a complex and intriguing flavor,” and recommends the Dido Blanco: “The Dido Blanco is a blend of native Spanish varietals that emphasize the non-fruit characteristics that a white wine is capable of. The purity of this white is a perfect match for the fish, but it also brings a broad range of intangible non-fruit flavors that land between savory, nutty, earthy, and umami.” For chicken in Sichuan chili oil Crotts frames the match as “a twist on the beloved ‘Champagne and fried chicken’ pairing,” adding: “Due to the complexity of the Sichuan chili oil, this dish deserves a bit more attention when selecting the right bubbles. Gomes grapes offer some excitement that can still stand out while your palate is being zapped by the Sichuan peppercorns.” Jones recommends Filipa Pato for that dish: “Filipa Pato is rich and ripe, complementing the spice of the dish while also boasting bright minerality and fresh acidity that play on the crispy texture of the chicken.” For Beijing Duck, Crotts sums up the red recommendation: “Duck classically craves to be paired with an elegant, savory red, and this wine is exactly that. The cabernet franc, which is present in this blend alongside two North American hybrid varieties, offers a slight edge of tannin to keep the structure in line while the norton and chambourcin create an uplifted savory, yet bright, graceful red fruit quality that perfectly complements duck.”" - Kiki Dy
