"Oliajide Agbede’s stall in the moat of Elephant and Castle is dedicated to broader Nigerian cuisine — fufu and eba, leafy nutty egusi soup, and fiery beef stews — but it’s his suya that brings people in. Seasoned and charred, the chicken suya is then reheated, chopped on the bone, and sprinkled with yaji, aromatic with ginger, freshly ground chiles and possibly cumin that is redolent of the spice mix used for Chinese skewers. Gizzard suya is made fresh and doused in an oily marinade containing onions and peppers. A double portion is £2 and can be mopped up with a Nigerian bun for 50p — a delicious dough dumpling with a crunchy outer crust of sugar, that offers a plain, sweet ballast to the gizzard’s fire and funk: simply, one of the best things possible to buy with £2.50 in London." - Jonathan Nunn