Jay Rayner Is Pained By the Squandering of Ingredients and People’s Time at Farm Girl Cafe | Eater London

"A lavish, theatrically luxurious fine-dining experience that deliberately courts opulence and amusement. Dishes include freshly grated Périgord truffle falling over baked celeriac like a snowdrift of luxury, turbot dressed with a dramatic champagne-and-caviar sauce, and an over-the-top chocolate soufflé described as an almost carnal climax; the room’s flamboyant pastel décor, cheeky, tailcoated staff and deliberately Instagram-friendly touches contribute to a democratic, princess-or-potentate feel. Despite (or because of) its excesses, the meal reads as knowing, fun and unabashedly rich — a Michelin-starred house that revels in indulgence." - George Reynolds