The Paper Bridge in Portland Offers Attention-Grabbing Vietnamese Fare | Eater Portland

"Fresh, springy rice noodles made in-house are the first thing that stand out here, followed by an enormous 14-page menu whose latter half dives into the history and components of Northern Vietnamese dishes, best navigated either by reading or by asking the server for guidance. Meals can start brightly with morning glory (rau muống), either pickled (rau muống ngâm chua ngọt) or sauteed with garlic (rau muống xào tỏi), and nearly foot-long quẩy nóng fritters that arrive crispy and warm, perfect for dipping into chile-studded nước chấm or saving to soak in pho broth. The West Lake-style rolled pho noodles (phở cuốn tây hồ) showcase those fresh noodles, delicately wrapped around tender slices of beef with herbs and lettuce for a fresh, herbaceous bite. For a Hanoi classic, bún chả Hà Nội comes with tangles of noodles and bite-sized cuts of grilled pork to dip into a fish sauce broth, while the pho lineup ranges widely; standouts include phở Nam Định, with three cuts of beef in a marrow-rich broth, and phở Việt Cao Bằng, pairing roast duck leg with a pork and duck broth. The restaurant takes its beverage program seriously, offering a tropical-leaning cocktail list, an expansive selection of infused rice wines and imported beers, and a formidable tea and coffee menu spanning traditional and modern options. Recently thrust into the national spotlight by major press, it has become harder to book, making Resy notifications or a lunchtime visit a smart strategy." - Kaitlin Bray