Hat Yai’s Alan Akwai Talks Takeout Chicken and Martinis in Portland | Eater Portland
"Alan Akwai and Akaapong “Earl” Ninsom co-founded and co-opened the first location after spotting a “For Lease” sign at NE Killingsworth and 16th Avenue; Akwai recalls that “the landlord happened to be on the premises, he showed us the space,” and that “it was new, this whole building. We were wondering if it was too narrow to fit a restaurant. It’s pretty tight.” Akwai, who had been working as a beverage consultant at Ninsom’s original iteration of Langbaan, handled front-of-house and operations while Ninsom handled the creative and culinary side, and the restaurant “was an instant hit” that’s “a first-thought destination and regular spot for Portlanders.” The signature “Hat Yai for 2” — a half-fried chicken set served with sticky rice, rich curry broth, roti, and spicy pickles — has become iconic (recognized by Eater as one of Portland’s best dishes), helped fuel record-breaking weekends in 2024 during the restaurant’s eighth year on NE Killingsworth and fifth year on SE Belmont, and is treated as untouchable: “We haven’t changed a whole bunch, we’re just doing our thing right.” Akwai also emphasizes the neighborhood fit: “In this neighborhood, we hit all those marks right, where it can be a weekly thing for families, tourists, visitors, carry-out on a school night or when you’re sick.”" - Thom Hilton
