"This light, slender canteen is a branch of Atari-Ya, which means the sushi comes with pretty slick pedigree: their wholesale operation T&S Enterprise supplies Mayfair’s flashest raw fish joints, from Nobu to Zuma. So when not in the mood to drop a grand in Berkeley Square, Cafe Japan’s toro and spring onion rolls, eel nigiri and teriyaki salmon make for a cheaper, equally delicious supper in a far more pleasant environment. As for that famous £42 Nobu black cod miso? £15 at Cafe Japan. Buy three and put the extra £3 down to smugness." - Frankie McCoy