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"For casual takeout I go to Ruth's Buka, the spot Ruth Ogbe started cooking out of her garage before opening in 2015; the bustling, loud room and steam-table service feel like a Nigerian buka, and Ruth's daughter Deborah fills boxes with egusi soup made with ground pumpkin seeds, efo riro (spinach stew), and — you can smell it from outside — smoky jollof rice (as Ruth says, "If it's not smoky, it's not jollof"); the jollof here builds a long, warm heat that even had my toddler wailing "Spicy!" before she settled on plantain and a chicken drumstick." - Becky Duffett