
5

"College students at the University of Michigan have crowned this 15-year-old spot the best burgers in Ann Arbor for many years, and the restaurant’s third outpost (after Detroit) opened in Williamsburg in October, bringing beloved fritas—French fry–loaded Cuban burgers—to New York, the hometown of chef and owner Eve Aronoff Fernandez. I start with a chorizo frita slicked with sweet chile mayo; the shoestring fries aren’t as crispy as Miami’s El Rey De Las Fritas, but they’re satisfying and make a single patty plenty filling. A thin, spicy, tomato-based sauce on the table begs to be applied (just don’t confuse it for ketchup). Any burger can be made “loco,” a glorious mess with a fried egg, cilantro-lime salsa, Muenster, and mango-accented tropical slaw—ignore the provided fork and knife at your peril. Twice-fried plantains aren’t necessary to fill out a meal, but they pleasantly surprise with a smoky, spicy sauce. Don’t skip a batido; these tropical shakes (think coconut cream and hibiscus) remain cold and cohesive (rather than separating) as I carve through my frita, and the cajeta, like a caramelized vanilla shake, is a sleeper. The menu runs from spiced chorizo (fritas are traditionally made with beef, pork, or both) to a vegetarian black bean, all paired with those batidos. Families, couples, and friends share white-washed picnic tables while a long, thin counter wraps around massive windows, and the glaringly white lights make the restaurant feel like an island in the night. Colorful sets of dominos and Biñho (a flick soccer game) sit on various tables—just be sure to wipe your hands well before playing." - Nick Mancall-Bitel