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"In Little Italy's Impasto, chef Liam Beckett — who worked in Tuscan kitchens from 2011 to 2014 and learned the tradition of dressing crudo simply with olive oil and a squeeze of lemon — treats crudo as an exercise in respecting a few excellent ingredients. Earlier this summer they served turbot crudo marinated in tomato water with a cucumber, mint and shallot salsa, and the latest iteration features bluefin tuna with pistachios, mosto cotto (grape must syrup) and a citrus cauliflower purée. The dishes have been a hit: crudo is becoming more of a staple, diners are already asking about future preparations and requesting lesser-seen cuts, and the restaurant intends to serve crudo year-round." - Joe Bongiorno