A Rocking New University Heights Pizzeria Is a Slice of 1980s Brooklyn in San Diego | Eater San Diego
"Opened Wednesday, May 7 by the team behind California Mediterranean restaurant Madison on Park and brunch-oriented Madi, this Brooklyn-inspired pizzeria pays homage to the gritty 1980s music scene that saw the rise of hip hop and punk rock. Madison chef Tony Gutíerrez and pizzaiolo José “Franky” Pereyra joined forces to compose a menu of pastas and 12-inch pizzas cooked at 600 degrees that straddle the line between traditional Neapolitan and New York pizza styles, all fired in an Italian-made Marana Forni gas and wood combination pizza oven imported from Verona, Italy. Previously an auto repair shop, the redesigned space by Anna and David Sindelar of Archisects channels the resilience and rebellion of 1980s Brooklyn using reclaimed materials, vintage wallpaper and photos of Italian-American icons, and warm wood panels; photos abound — there are portraits from The Godfather movie set with Sonny Corleone alongside Italian American crooner Tony Bennett at the rear of wooden pub booths in the main dining room. Yankee pendants illuminated by candle wall sconces and pizza parlor–style leaded-glass lamps hang from above, and the mezzanine features dark wood furniture and still life paintings that feel like a nonna’s kitchen. Signature pies include Pereyra’s Blitzkrieg Bop—named after the Ramones’ punk anthem—topped with "cup n' char" pepperoni, fresh basil, and grated Pecorino Romano, while the Beastie Boys–themed No Sleep 'Til Brooklyn comes topped with speck (cured pork), mozzarella, mushroom, and red onion. Diners can also get a plate of Italian American nostalgia, such as chicken Francese, a pan-fried cutlet in lemon butter sauce and fresh parsley, as well as old-school American dishes like jumbo shrimp cocktail and a wagyu burger topped with American cheese, onions, and sauce on a soft potato bun. The menu features natural wines and an amaro-centric cocktail program helmed by Madison on Park bartender Danny Kuehner; Kuehner will have a number of signature Negronis, plus 1980s-themed drinks like the Run DMC, a blend of Drambuie, Cynar, and mezcal. The drink menu also presents plenty of low-intervention wines to enjoy on an elegant copper-topped bar that overlooks a concrete patio shaded by greenery. As the crew's third entry into the University Heights dining scene, the restaurant cements their footprint in the tight-knit neighborhood of eclectic restaurants, coffee spots, and quirky shops; it is located at 1728 Madison Avenue, University Heights, San Diego, CA, and is open daily from 4 p.m. to 11 p.m." - Bill Esparza
