"This sleeper is the project of two grandsons of one of Mexico City’s most distinguished chefs, Carmen Ramírez Degollado, who grew up in Veracruz and the menu reflects that in a big way. You’ve never had a better or sharper version of the classic fish Veracruz, which shines with tomatoey goodness — and no chiles to speak of. The menu is filled with surprises, like garnachas topped with brisket and ‘taters, and huauzontles made into pillowy fritters. The serene interior is decorated with Oaxacan pottery." - Robert Sietsema