"With its dining room a cloistered island separated by doors and walls from the kitchen, staff, and cash register—anarchy can easily reign at this Lil' Porkhouse. A recent visit found anarchy in the guise of a boys' birthday party, 10 pardners in kerchiefs thrilling to the smoky air, the dire lack of supervision, and the really damned good ribs. Plan to have a platter of pork and save room for the banana pudding. You might need its courage." - Gretchen Giles