"No other restaurant in town is serving pak mor, delicate rice-skin dumplings that are typically filled with pork. You can get them as a takeout order — can’t you get anything as takeout now? — but they really are best when they’re fresh, and on a car ride from the CID they can stick together and get a bit gummy. On cold days, you can try the sukhothai, a little-bit-of-everything soup with pork shoulder and fish balls." - Harry Cheadle