Mary H.K. Choi on Her Novel ‘Permanent Record’ and the Best Bodega Snacks | Eater
"A surprisingly large, 24-hour organic food store and deli in the Gowanus area of Brooklyn that feels bigger-than-bodega and blends ready-made convenience with an upscale, international snack selection. Shelves and cases are stocked with ready-made sushi and dumplings, counter-service sandwiches, hot Korean dishes like kimchi fried rice, and aisles overflowing with fresh avocados, Tate’s cookies, and an almost comical variety of ketchups and packaged treats from around the world. The store functions as a late-night hub — its graveyard-shift deli culture and inventive “Hot Snacks” ethos inspired the fictional deli in Mary H.K. Choi’s novel Permanent Record — and attracts adventurous, foodie-minded customers looking for nostalgic imported snacks, quick Korean comfort dishes, and inventive late-night meals. The author, a former local shopper, navigates the selection like an expert, praising particularly toothsome items such as milk chocolate with cornflakes and Australian licorice, underscoring the shop’s eclectic, multicultural appeal." - Jenny G. Zhang
