

4
"Recalled nostalgically as a specialty grocery with aisles stocked with aspirational produce, evoking the bourgeois culinary landscape of the early 1980s; the memory lists items like “arugola [sic] and radicchio and fresh basil and sorrel and sugar snap peas and six kinds of sprouts,” and serves to mark a move from New York to Washington, D.C., as well as to underscore the protagonist’s sense of loss and longing for a particular food culture." - Rebecca Flint Marx