Beverly Hills’ New Members-Only Club Gravitas Is Actually a Food Destination, Too | Eater LA

"Founded by former Pistola partner and Innovative Dining Group operations director Seth Glassman alongside entrepreneur Brandon Steven, the 27,000-square-foot streetside fortress — a former flagship Wells Fargo branch at the corner of Camden Drive and Santa Monica Boulevard — has been fully transformed into a wine-centric private members-only social club. The gilded, Kelly Architects–designed interior leans vaguely midcentury-modern with plush semi-circle leather banquettes, a 360-degree bar, dim lighting, colorful faux foliage “Alice in Wonderland” theming that makes the commanding space feel like the Bellagio in Vegas, and a bi-level lounge with wine storage; beyond that are event spaces (one earmarked to eventually showcase rare cars — Steven owns multiple car dealerships throughout the Midwest and Southern California), another lounge, a super-wide screen, a podcast studio, and conference rooms. Membership logistics are explicit and specific: initiation starts at $2,500 (over-30 applicants pay $2,500 initiation plus $5,500 for the first and subsequent years; under-30 applicants pay the same $2,500 initiation and $4,000 annually), and a couples option is $2,500 plus $7,500 (requires proof of marriage); there is an application process and member endorsement is encouraged though not strictly required, and members can bring guests. Practical conveniences reflect the target crowd: a corner valet row on Camden, a grand Vegas-style entrance with an enormous door, a private entrance from the parking garage with its own host stand for VIPs who want to avoid paparazzi, and a local black car service offering free pick-up and drop-off within a few miles. The club positions itself overtly as a wine collector’s club — temperature-controlled bottle storage with optional lockers (available for an additional annual fee) so members can store bottles and enjoy them on-site without paying corkage; when asked about corkage for non-locker members, Glassman said, "it hasn’t really come up." The bottle list and wine-by-the-glass offerings are carefully chosen (examples include Carboniste pét-nat from Lodi, Schaller Vau de Vey 1er Cru, Les Vin Pirouettes 'Eros', and dessert pairings such as Passito di Pantellera “Bukkuram” Sole di Agosto), and the cocktail program is strong despite the wine focus — notably a passion fruit milk punch served in a vintage glass the color of a wilted daffodil with hints of coconut and black tea that prompted repeat orders. Chef Preston Madson, an acolyte of Jonathan Waxman, runs a seasonal, unfussy American menu: starters include a Gjelina-esque charcuterie board and a $165-an-ounce ossetra caviar service with biscuits, cultured butter, and smoked tomato jam; well-made plates include grilled octopus with paprika aioli, steak tartare, a meaty caserecce bolognese, roast chicken in the Waxman lineage, Creekstone Farms–featured steaks (notably an excellent grilled New York strip), and a circular breaded chicken Parmesan described as an enormous crispy Lunchable; one minor misstep was a whole branzino presented folded rather than butterflied. Desserts impressed — a textbook tiramisu dusted in cocoa and a Rubik’s cube–shaped cheesecake inspired diners to claw at the plate until coffee arrived. The atmosphere skews between the quiet dealmaking of a Grill on the Alley and the more raucous Mastro’s vibe: house music and dim, New York-hotspot lighting, tucked-away sports screens behind a floating shelf so it doesn’t feel like a Yardhouse, a no-photos policy, and the practical benefit that tables are reliably available for members. The overall appeal is pragmatic as much as prestige: personalized service, readily available tables, Madson’s cooking, wine lockers, on-site variety of spaces for different experiences, and a community oriented around dining and drinks rather than pure celebrity; for those who value those things, the concept and the food largely deliver." - Matthew Kang