A Young Latine Pastry Chef Shakes Up Highland Park With Inventive Conchas | Eater LA
"Pastry chef Ellen Ramos first drew Southern California attention when she served her signature LA-shaped churro for dessert at the Arts District’s Cha Cha Cháin in 2022; that moment helped define her approach after developing her style at upscale Downtown LA restaurants 71 Above and Redbird. At her new Highland Park bakery (opening Wednesday, March 12) she will expand a Mexico City– and LA‑inspired pastry program that includes concha croissants, pepita-infused financier cakes, cinnamon-crust and burnt-vanilla–filled conchas, and champurrado-flavored maple doughnuts, all prepared throughout the day and displayed in tall cases modeled on Mexico City panaderías. Savory offerings include a potato soyrizo croissant and a cured beef and kale chimichurri focaccia sandwich topped with fried chile güeros. Contemporary twists on traditional Mexican bakery drinks—cafe de olla, champurrado, and horchata—will accompany the pastries; Mexico City baker Odette Olavarri consulted on the menu and a kouign-amann with cajeta from her shop will appear throughout March. The storefront inhabits the former historic Security Trust and Savings Bank (built in 1923) and features a modern room by Studio Lena’s Lena Kohl with custom marble counters and white oak walls and shelves; it shares a wall with the Gold Line Bar and sits steps from Homestate Highland Park. Pastries range from $3.50 to $7, sandwiches at $15; beginning March 12 the shop will be takeout only and open 9 a.m.–4 p.m. Wednesday–Sunday. Ramos, whose parents come from El Salvador and Mexico, says, "... is so close to home because I grew up in El Sereno. Everyone came to Highland Park to hang out. It’s exciting to be on Figueroa and showcase what I’ve been doing for the last couple of years." She also quips, "All those yoga people across the street, dude, just treat yourself here." - Mona Holmes
