A Critic Relishes the ‘Unrestrained’ Flavors of Bar Biscay - Eater Chicago
"Bar Biscay thrills Maggie Hennessy with a 'joyfully irreverent design and a broad mix of dreamy, Franco-Spanish-tinged eats.' The space ranges from 'bright and airy up front' to a LED lights-illuminated back dining room that 'more closely resembles the no-frills pintxos spots you might find in Spain.' Basque Country flavors come through in full effect on skewers of anchovy with charred asparagus and pickled haricot vert. Similarly, buttery hake atop a tomato-olive sauce 'tinge[s] with meaty depth from jamon broth' while 'complex' veggie dishes include a tangle of clams, bitter greens, gigante beans, and Serrano ham that packs 'savory, jolting acidity.' Cream puffs are a 'dulcetly uncontroversial ender' and on the beverage side, the Wrath of Kalimotxo 'adults up the beloved Spanish teen drink, mixing red wine and house-made 'Coke.''" - Jeffy Mai
