
5

"Set inside a “seven-acre luxury nursery” with loads of al fresco seating, I found the restaurant a frustrating mismatch of prized ingredients and poor execution: too many dishes are indifferently cooked, bluntly flavored, or overpowered by too many components. A convoluted bowl of rye berries with Chinese sausage, shrimp, kimchi, and caramelized onions is crowned with a rubbery fried egg and quickly slips into a brown, salty torpor; a signature vegetable bowl is a dense, sluggish welter of fibrous things and is a slog. A pork tenderloin comes off unappealingly tangy from a port-dried cherry sauce, and the Icelandic cod is conspicuously underseasoned. Service is helpful and the setting is gorgeous, but beyond that there’s not much to recommend." - Farley Elliott