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"After a few weeks’ delay, this revival at 110 Waverly Place in Greenwich Village brings back one of New York’s most famous Italian restaurants under Stephen Starr, with chef Mark Ladner returning to lead a menu inspired by what he calls “22 distinct regions”—the 20 of Italy plus two for the old and the new Babbo. The opening buzz is fueled by drama—from the Mario Batali/Spotted Pig fallout that felled the prior group to a possible appearance by Scabby the union rat tied to D.C. unionization disputes—but the focus is on the food: fin fish or shellfish crudi trios; antipasti like warm escarole salad, lamb’s tongue, and sweetbreads; a 49‑day minestrone; respun classics such as a 100‑layer Detroit‑style lasagne for four; beef‑cheek ravioli; and secondi like veal osso buco and grilled squab with grapes and hazelnuts. Desserts veer from Italian‑American tropes to include zabaglione with sour cherries, the famous saffron panna cotta with gigante raisins, and a blueberry blue cheese budino. The space has been refreshed by Gachot with red walls upstairs and restored leather banquettes, while the signature wine list and cellar remain, backed by a deep Champagne selection and an expanded cocktail bar. Service is overseen by Tizzy Beck, a “personality powerhouse,” and reservations are on Resy (Sunday–Thursday until 10 p.m., Saturday until 11 p.m.)." - Melissa McCart