"Chef Brian Howard — who trained in acclaimed kitchens like Comme Ça, Alizé, and Bouchon — runs a genre-defying Chinatown flagship that blends fine-dining precision with fearless, globally inspired flavors. Seasonal tasting menus jump through the continents with ease while a la carte options offer a more casual way to explore his boundary-pushing cooking. Standouts include Vietnamese bánh cuốn stuffed with savory duck and wrapped in black rice rolls; Spanish octopus over jet-black squid-ink risotto; and honey-glazed pork secreto paired with sweet potato–banana purée. The food is ambitious but unfussy — each dish layered with texture and contrast, without losing its soul, and many diners are encouraged to let the kitchen lead with the tasting menu." - Janna Karel