

14
"A Canadian-based spot that opened in 2019 near Union Square (233 Park Avenue South and 19th Street) sits in a seafood corridor a few blocks from the new Time and Tide and near the soon-to-open Seahorse from John McDonald at the Union Square W Hotel. With sprawling, elegant dining rooms, it operates as a hybrid restaurant that focuses on seafood while also functioning as a steakhouse. The menu follows a conventional progression from snack to appetizer to entrée to side to dessert, and the appetizers — shrimp cocktail ($24), Caesar salad ($22), beef tataki ($24), and crab cake ($29) — “seemed a little steep” for starters. In the entrée section a selection of whole fish is displayed on ice at the rear of the dining room the way Midtown Greek restaurants often do; these include sea bass, john dory, red snapper, branzino, and madai — sometimes known as Japanese red snapper and imported from Japan. The reviewer chose the madai and had it carved into sashimi (one of many seafood preparation options at the restaurant); the fish ($60) was just over a pound and yielded a magnificent plate of fanned sashimi, about 50 slices in all, easily enough for four people to enjoy as an appetizer, making it the most value-conscious starter in the place at roughly $15 per person." - Robert Sietsema