"Oceans, with its sprawling and elegant dining rooms, is a hybrid restaurant that focuses on seafood, but also functions as a steakhouse. The appetizers run to shrimp cocktail ($24), Caesar salad ($22), beef tataki ($24), and crab cake ($29), which seemed a little steep to me for appetizers. Over in entrees, I spotted a selection of whole fish, displayed on ice at the rear of the restaurant the way Midtown Greek restaurants often do. These included sea bass, john dory, red snapper, branzino, and madai — sometimes known as Japanese red snapper and imported from Japan. I chose the latter, and had it carved into sashimi — one of many seafood preparation options at the restaurant. The fish ($60) was just over a pound and yielded a magnificent plate of fanned sashimi, about 50 slices in all, easily enough for four people to enjoy as an appetizer. At $15 per person, it made the most value-conscious starter in the place." - Robert Sietsema
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