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"Opening during the pandemic, Kuttanadan specializes in the cooking of the far-southwestern state of Kerala, making it nearly unique in the city (actually, it’s right on the border of Long Island and Queens). Perfectly grilled sardines and other seafood make up much of the menu, but perhaps more surprising are dishes featuring pork and beef — the latter found in beef devil, a dish that features brisket and the black peppercorns from a region sometimes called the Malabar Coast." - Robert Sietsema