"The emergence of manti — to be clear, the small, spinning top shaped dumplings that veer from the size of Turkish agnolotti up to small ravioli — in London in the five years or so can be traced thus: A hidden Harringay secret, to Selin Kiazim’s Oklava Bakery (nee Kyseri), to trend, and now to every nu-Anatolian restaurant in the city. The original can still be found on Green Lanes at Hala: seemingly about a hundred tiny dumplings covered in yoghurt and chilli oil, way too rich for one person to eat but a perfect thing to order for the table. Across the road at Gozleme House, it’s possible to buy them frozen by the kilo to make at home (top tip: they go really well with Lao Gan Ma chilli oil fried in butter)." - Jonathan Nunn