Minyoli

Taste a Fading Taiwanese Tradition at Minyoli | Eater Chicago

"Born in Taipei, chef Rich Wang moved to the United States as a teen, built his career in some of Chicago’s top kitchens, earned an official noodle-maker certification in Lanzhou, and worked in Macau before returning to Chicago to open a restaurant named after the juàn cūn village where his family lived, carrying forward the military dependents’ settlement traditions through hearty broths, noodle dishes, and street food. The noodles are a highlight: for something lighter, try the cold ganban sesame noodles with black vinegar, carrots, cucumbers, and enoki mushrooms, or settle into the red-braised niuroumian, a Taiwanese noodle soup made with beef bone broth, black-bean soy sauce, and pickled mustard greens that starts light but builds in depth and complexity as you eat; add beef, tendon, or both. The fried chicken with sour plum powder is crispy and not too greasy thanks to a coating of potato starch. Drinks range from wine, beer, and tea to homemade and Taiwanese sodas, with a standout savory cocktail made with aged Shaoxing cooking wine and fried shallots. The vibe is personal and nostalgic—there’s a cool tapestry at the bar that’s an heirloom from Wang’s grandfather—and you might walk out inspired to build your own playlist of Taiwanese ’90s tunes. On Sundays, there’s a brunch menu with a shaobing sandwich made with a bread that takes three days to make; don’t miss the house-made mi jiang, a drink similar to Mexican atole but made with rice and peanuts, and pair it with youtiao, fried dough that practically begs to be dipped into it." - Brenda Storch