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"I recall that his earlier pop-up, Jolie Laide ('ugly pretty' in French), served bold combinations of flavors in unique contexts and inspired Berlu’s brick-and-mortar approach; when Jolie Laide ran, dishes often blurred savory and sweet — for example, squid tentacles with pork, strawberries, and fava beans would precede almond milk dumplings with roasted garlic and fermented honey." - Janey Wong