"Sun Sai Gai has held court at the corner of Canal and Baxter streets for what feels like forever, serving a classic Cantonese menu with soups, noodles, and the charcuterie known as lap cheong. But the Vietnamese writing on the outdoor signage and the full menu clues you that this place is also a Teochew restaurant, with dishes representing the Chinese diaspora in Southeast Asia. The list of lap cheong is particularly lush, and on this occasion, I picked the roast pig (as opposed to “roast pork,” which is char siu) and roast duck over rice ($10), which comes with steamed napa cabbage. The roast pig has a supremely crunchy skin, like a potato chip. Make sure you ask for the green ginger and scallion relish, which adds a salty and pungent kick. 220 Canal Street, at Baxter Street, Chinatown — Robert Sietsema, senior critic" - Eater Staff
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