
3

"A dramatic, open-flame restaurant set inside what used to be D.C.’s oldest firehouse, where a striking, car‑weight grill visible from the street sears the prime Argentine cuts and a sky‑high ceiling still hints at the old firefighter pole. A gleaming copper‑wrapped counter—an homage to founder Tato Giovannoni’s engineer grandfather—anchors a room with an open kitchen that blends into the bar so diners can watch chefs and bartenders work in tandem. Seasonality drives a menu that goes beyond steak to house‑made pâtés, preserved vegetables, wild game, and empanadas (served on both levels), with white‑and‑blue French plateware adding a classic touch. Artful flourishes abound: two graphic‑pencil sea creatures watch over the 55‑seat space, bathrooms make moo‑ing sounds in a wink to the countryside theme, and a dramatic private dining room hides in back with an upside‑down tree‑like chandelier recalling La Pampa, reclaimed Virginia barn wood, and a records‑only setup where hosts pick five vinyls to spin and take home. A growing 250‑bottle wine list lines an upstairs runway that leads to a slim terrace overlooking the C&O Canal." - Tierney Plumb