"There’s good reason for the phrase “too much of a good thing,” and anywhere with an entire menu revolving around cheese teeters dangerously close. Matthew Carver’s counter-only space is absolutely worth busting out a few warm-up lunges for, showcasing British and London cheeses through well-considered dishes. The standard toastie (Ogleshield, Keens cheddar and grilled onions) rivals Borough Market’s Kappacasein, while the four-cheese fondue and Devon blue cheese ice cream (with honeycomb and poached pear) are unrepentantly decadent ways to eat oneself into a lactose-induced stupor." - David Paw