Chi Restaurant & Bar

Chi Is the Hell’s Kitchen Chinese Restaurant That Deserves to Be Packed | Eater NY

"On my four or five visits to Chi, the flavors are occasionally less lusty and more restrained than I’d prefer, yet I’m reminded of what it’s like when you glimpse professional athletes or dancers: the chef is clearly well trained and super fluid in the kitchen. Lei reportedly studied regional Chinese cooking at a Beijing culinary school before coming to New York to consult on high-end Chinese openings. The vibe is not fancy but clean and well‑lighted, with hexagon tile floors and a glass dragon sculpture in the back room; I wish they’d dim the lights, add votives, and swap the current ‘doctors’ office’ playlist. The crowd includes big groups of Chinese students and couples sharing dishes; I’m always tempted to sit at the bar but end up in the giant, cushy booths in the back when I want a private conversation. Chinese gong fu–style teas are interesting, served in a clear teapot kept hot at the table, while the booze list features cocktails like “the Double Tom” (a yuzu collins), Young Master Black Beer from Hong Kong, Albarino and Soave wines, and sake. The food highlights for me were the amazing cucumbers that punch above their weight—laced with spicy oil, Chinkiang vinegar, and soy, dappled with Sichuan peppercorns and dried chiles; a vegetable treated with duck yolk that tastes like Cool Ranch Doritos ($18); a very savory mashed eggplant and peppers; and a family-declared “best thing” of the year, the classic fish in pickled cabbage soup (we chose flounder) stacked with enoki mushrooms, delicate white fish, a hint of spice, and plenty of pickled greens ($35). I also liked the double-cooked pork with leeks cut on the bias and the sliced beef ($18) that pops after a dry-wok toss with lotus root, peppers, chiles, and onions. The only real miss was a slick, underseasoned stir-fried cabbage. Prices felt fair—two appetizers, three dishes, and four glasses of wine ran just over $200—and I can see myself becoming a regular who stops by the bar for one or two dishes I especially crave." - Melissa McCart