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"Maximalist and food-waste–focused, this San Francisco spot is relaunching as a supper club, shedding most pizzas (and the “Trash Pie and Natural Wine” moniker) to spotlight seasonal small plates and nostalgic dishes built from imperfect produce and off-cuts. Highlights include Fish Stick 2.0—salt cod worked into bacalao fritters with dill panna cotta for dipping and pickled green strawberries; Beef Three, a steak-frites riff with New York steak, beef cheek, and oxtail plus fries; a crumb-crusted wild boar chop; and tuna rib crudo served off the rib frame with citrus, chiles, and herb stem aioli for spooning bites off the bones. Dessert leans theatrical with a tableside, flambeed baked Alaska and the Bon Bon Handy, a chocolate bon bon with peanut mousse served on the back of a hand with edible glitter. Pies aren’t gone entirely: Sundays switch to a pizza-only menu that pairs with live jazz (with jazz also on Tuesdays); “Le Shug’s French Dip Night” lands in the fall, and a prix fixe menu is planned. The vibe remains maximalist but skews “glam Vegas”—the formerly bright-yellow front room now glows orange with a new Abe-painted mural and an orange fountain found on Facebook Marketplace, and the exterior wears black-and-white stripes and checkers. Reopening Friday, August 29, the restaurant operates 5 p.m. to 10 p.m., Tuesday through Sunday." - Dianne de Guzman