"On the final stop of California’s barbacoa trail, meet Gonzalo Ramirez, shepherd, butcher, and master barbacoyero in California’s central valley. The snores reverberating through the windows of his pickup are a sign of what’s required to harness the wild energy of the pit into a refined, orderly cook. Barbacoa is both art and science, and years of study have taught Gonzalo to understand both, to align structure and finesse to a cooking process that’s concealed from the cook." - Bill Esparza
