
5

"I went to Gahwa in Flushing for a comfort-food feast and ordered modum bo ssam, a large platter with two types of thinly sliced meat—pork belly and pork butt—and an array of fixings (salted napa cabbage, raw garlic, tangy scallion salad, and spicy radish salad); wrapping everything in cabbage produced nearly perfect bites, and sipping the lip-sticking, collagen-heavy sullungtang afterward made the trip well worth it." - Eater Staff